Using Back Leads

Why use a backlead

Backleads can be useful when you want to pin the line between rod and rig to the lake bed, so that carp are not likely to be spooked by either seeing or running into it. Also, on days when you seem to be getting constant line bites, using a backlead can eliminate the problem entirely. Fish may feed more confidently when your line is running along the bed of lake out of the way of any cruising carp. We have all seen carp after carp turn away just when they are about to cross your line, in a situation like this by using a backlead the carp would not see the line and continue cruising undisturbed without being spooked.

Another advantage of a backlead when using more than one rod, is that when you are fighting a carp on one rod there is far less chance of it kiting across and tangling in the line of the other rod, as the line is held down out of the way of the ensuing fight.

Lastly in South Africa some dams have problems with obstructions (on the water) as well as a continious problem of Hyacinth. When fishing with a back lead you reduce the chance of these obstructions causing line mamangement problems. i.e. Roodekoppies and Roodeplaat.

Picture of No Backlead Used:



After casting and before tightening up slip the back lead onto your line and slide it down into the lake. A spare length of line or braid should be tied to the back lead and the other end attached to your pod or bank side It can then be retrieved if it comes off on the retrieve or in a fight with a carp.

There are basically 2 types of backlead, one is a ring on a weight with a slit to allow the lead to be slipped on the line after casting, this type of lead stays on the the line during retrieval and any fight with a carp. With this type of backlead it is probably better to not attach it by line to an object on the bank, but just have the lead on the line sliding freely. The other type has a has a screw fitting and 2 arms for gripping over the line. This type is designed so the line jumps out of the backlead on a strike, the fight then continuing without the backlead attached to the line. With this sort it is essential to tether the lead to an object on the bank by line so it can be retrieved.

One disadvantage of using backleads is that after striking there can be more slack line to pick up before making direct contact with a fish.

Picture of Using a Back Lead:

To use a backlead or not to use a backlead. If you need to make direct contact with a fish as soon as possible, then using a backlead can be a disadvantage, However, if the fish are being spooked out of your swim or you are experiencing line bites, then give backleading a go. It could result in more fish on the bank.

A back lead can be constructed effectivly with what you already have in your box. When requuired I use (what we call) a P2 sinker. I then use a clip on swivel onto the P2 with the non clip end attached to the P2 ring with a piece of braid. Once the line is in the water, I then take the clip part of the clip on swivel and clip that to the line and drop the P2 1 to 2 meters into the water thus pinning the line to the bed.

Spod Rocket

What is a spod?


A spod is basically a cylindrical bait rocket with a buoyant nose cone. The spod is filled with bait - pellets, corn, boilies or particles – and is then cast into the swim.

The buoyant nose cone makes the spod flip end up in the water allowing it to deposit its payload on a sixpence every time.

Spods come in a variety of types and sizes, from the tiny Gardner Pocket Rocket through to larger models, like the Korda Skyliner spod that is capable of carrying almost half-a-pint of bait at a time.

Apart from their size difference, some spods have many holes in their side and some have none at all. The side holes help water flow when you’re retrieving the spod.
However, if you’re looking to spod maggots or very small items like hemp and micro pellets, it’s better to use a spod with few or no holes in the side.

Spodding is a method used by many carp anglers as it enables the angler to very quickly bait up a swim with light or small baits beyond catapult range. However, if you do a lot of feeder fishing for bream and tench for example, it’s well worth investing in a spodding outfit. Rather than making a dozen casts with a feeder in order to prime the swim, quicken the whole process by simply filling your spod with groundbait.

The tackle you'll need...

An ordinary 2.5lb or 2.75lb test curve rod coupled with a standard free spool reel loaded with 12lb line could just about cope with spodding a small amount of bait short distances, but to get the most from this deadly technique you'll need a special set-up.

Large-spooled big pit reels loaded with braided line and a strong mono shockleader are best as they will take the brunt of a powerful cast, yet the large spool and thin diameter braid will not slow the spod down as it flies.

The best rods are specialiy designed spod rods having test curves of around the 4lb to 5lb mark. These will easily be able to cope with the stresses of casting filled spods that could weigh in excess of 6oz - maybe even 10oz in some circumstances.


Great baits for spodding…
Boilies can be catapulted out, but if you want to get them in a tighter grouping, it’s better to spod them. Another advantage of spodding boilies is that regardless of what size of bait you’re using, you can still get them 100-yards plus.

Pellets come in various types and sizes and it is always better to mix them in order to fool the fish. These should be spodded out and not catapulted. To add casting weight, dunk the spod under the water prior to casting.

Similar to pellets, the amount of different particles that you can use is legion. Again, as most particles are quite light, it pays to use a larger spod in order to give you a little bit more casting weight. Spods come in a variety of different shapes and sizes.

QUICK TIP
After you have cast out your spod into the swim, leave it for a few seconds in order to allow the spod time to fully empty. Also, prior to retrieving the spod, make a strike; this is to ensure that the spod is completely empty.

Marker Float Set-Up

FINDING UNDERWATER FEATURES.

what you will need for basic marker float / feature finding setup

1 x carp marker float
2 x carp rubber shock beads
1 x 2oz+ lead

BASIC CARP FISHING MARKER FLOAT SETUP for finding under water features.

how to set it all up

right first up slide your lead onto your mainline the size is up to you but i suggest a 2 1/2 oz lead or more.

now thread on 1 or 2 rubber shock beads these are for trying to cut down the tangles and to make sure the swivel on the marker float dont snag on the knot or lead

now tie your marker float on.

all done.


WEEDY MARKER FLOAT SETUP

heres what you need.

1 x marker float.
1 x a piece of line around 18 inches long.
1 x small swivel.
1 x cork ball.
1 x 2oz+ lead.

1. tie on a lead to your piece of loose line.

2. now thread on a cork ball with a baiting needle.

3. now tie a swivel onto the other end of line so the total length from lead to swivel is 12 inches.

4. now slide the cork ball over the swivel so just 1 eye is showing.

5. part 1 finished.

6. now thread the swivel (seperate piece of line with the lead attatched) onto your mainline.

7. now thread a bead onto your mainline.

8. now tie a marker float onto the end of your mainline.

FEATURE FINDING : THE ART OF FINDING UNDERWATER FEATURES

Some times on larger waters it isnt as easy as just casting to a island or just under a bush in the margins as banks dont allways contain vegetation for cover so you need to know what the lake bed is like out in front of your swim so you can stand a resonable chance of finding a carp patrol route.

Marginal shelfs are a great place to pick up a few carp and finding them is easy heres a few tips on what to look out for. You should start casting to the left or right of your swim and work your way across to the opposite side of your swim checking depths.

When the lead hits the lake bed you want to feel the vibration through the rod to indicate what the lake bed is made of. If its a solid/tap when it lands its gravel or sand if you dont feel much its probably silt. When doing this dont look at the lake look at the floor and try and picture the bottom.

As you pull the marker float back to you by raising your rod slowly over head youl feel the lead tight against the lake bed as it moves along you will feel a steady resistance or mabe tapping.
if you feel tapping its gravel you can roughly tell how big the stones are on the bottom as the lead slides over them.

Some times theres big mussle beds they also feel like big stones spread out a bit but watch your line because theyl close if tapped and might grab the line or lead. If its sand you will will feel it running along the bottom smoothly or if its soft silt or clay you will feel it sliding but with more resistace but this depends on how thick the silt/clay is.

When you feel different area`s like when silt patches hit gravel try raising your marker float, you should let a foot of line out at a time by pulling line from the spool with either your baitrunner set lightly or using your clutch untill you see your float this will tell you how deep that spot is. You should repeat this all the way in



When you find gravel you will be able to tell how big the gravel patch is or if its a bar you will feel it as you come up the back of it. you will notice that it pulls back a bit untill you hit the top of the bar and the leads not pulling back but this depends on how steep the bars are when at the top raise your marker float and see how deep it is



As you go over the bar youl generaly feel the line go slacker as it rolls over and falls down the other side now raise your float again ,is it deeper than the other side?whas it a gravel bar or was it the marginal shelf? if theres weed itl feel snaggy and youl need to pull harder till the lead pulls through. If its just clumps of weed it will be the same but less presure is needed to pull it out and then you might feel gravel or silt patches then mabe odd clumps of weed. If the bottom is covered in silk weed you will find your marker float wont rise to the surface or you will find it tangled around your rig when you reel in sometimes the carp wise up to suspiciously placed baits like right in the center of a bar or gravel patch. Try to find the gravel then pull back slowly till you just feel silt then leave it there so the leads in the silt but the baits on gravel or 12 inches onto the silt which is where they generaly start to feed like eating from the side of the plate. Youve just got to find the most likely feeding spots .